To Be Continued
Well, I can't decide what to name this chapter since, as often is the case in these endeavors,
I don't really know the order or things that might or should get done. So I'll just leave it
as is for now. Later, when I do know what has been done then I will probably change the title
to be more accurate. In the mean time, these are the things that I know need to be done.
Overhaul the mechanical fuel pump. I have a new one that appears to be the same except for
the actuating lever. I hope it can serve as a parts donor or somehow one good pump can be
made from the two. (See Mechanical Fuel Pump below.)
Change the electrical fuel pump mounting bracket so it can be removed and replaced in 20
minutes instead of 2-3 hours. I have a plan but it requires removal then some welding.
(See Electric Fuel Pump below.)
Repair the rear apron and boot lid. The apron below the boot had been pushed in and pretty
beat up before I got the car. I originally filled it with bondo but now it is time for a
proper repair. The apron also has some structural integrity as it is the mounting point
for the lid hinges. The same incident also cracked the body on both sides in the bottom
corners of the boot opening. The boot lid has some minor oil canning in the middle. This
repair requires welding and removal of the fuel pump, filter and tank. (See Apron below.)
Remove, clean and paint rear axle and torque tube. The drive train is already painted back
to the front universal joint. This is the remaining pieces. (See Underside below.)
Send dampers to be rebuilt then to be installed after painting the underside.
Clean, strip and paint rear half of frame and underside. The frame and sheet metal is to be
the same green as the body. Most of the outwardly visible frame is already done at least to
the rear wings but the underside is not. The wooden floor boards will be black, probably by
brush. (See Underside below.)
Finish the previous repairs to the nearside front wing. It had a long split that I welded
together years ago but did not grind, straighten and finish.
Straighten the bonnet. This may not get done soon as it may be beyond my abilities. At some
time in the past, the hinges wore enough to go beyond center when raising the bonnet. Then
trying to pull it back down against a solid stop resulted in some significant distortion to
the skin as well as the structural stuff at the hinges.
Fit the rear seat back to the seat to ensure pleats align.
I hope to accomplish all the above over the winter months but not necessarily in the specified
Well again, life interrupted plans. I got started on those items but then got distracted by an
important phase of the Home Remodel Project. I am at the
following points on the above projects. I still hope to get them done over the winter but it
will be the winter a year later.
Mechanical Fuel Pump - The spare pump was in even worse condition than the current one.
I ordered a repair kit at Small Ford
Spares, and overhauled the pump. I had forgotten, however, how close the fit is with the
later model steering box installed. It had to be moved in order to remove the pump from the
engine. I decided to install a blanking plate, store the rebuilt pump and just run from the
electric pump full time instead. At some time I will probably want a proper SU pump.
Electric Fuel Pump - I removed the pump and bracket to work on the rear apron. The change
to the bracket was to weld nuts to it so it can be held in place with one hand while the other
installs the bolts from outside rather than from under the car. It works as expected.
Apron - After removing several layers of bondo and some other filler material, I was able
to better diagnose the cause of the damage. There was a fairly clean but deep wrinkle just below
the center of the panel and 80 percent of its length. It was not the result of a collision. It
was, instead, the result of some DPO (dreaded prior owner) thinking the boot floor would be a
good jacking point. This not only bent the floor and cracked a couple of spot welds but it also
buckled the apron which was attached to the floor. The dent would not pull out and there was not
enough work room behind it to work it out with hammer and dolly. I eventually had to remove the
panel, cut the bottom half off and make a replacement piece. This was fairly straight forward
but welding it back together was more problematic due to distortion from the heat. Replacing the
entire panel would eliminate that problem but the top half has pockets and reinforcement for the
boot lid hinges. That would be a major, or near impossible, job to reproduce. I did repair the
rust and distortions in the boot floor with the apron out. That is also the point at which I
stopped for the home remodel job. My plan now is to weld the upper section back in then weld the
bottom to it on the car for stability. I may even resort to brazing if heat still causes excessive
Underside - The car is up on jack stands to make it easier to repair the apron and some
rust in the boot floor it attaches to. After the apron is replaced, I will drop the axle and prop
shaft as a unit. That will give good access to prep and paint the remaining underside as well as
prep and paint the axle and shaft. Then the car can go back on its wheels for the rest of the